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Race Replicas is a complete service house with thousands of quality HO
slot car bodies and parts in stock!
- Frequently Asked Questions
AN ACTUAL AURORA CAR RESTORED TO LIKE NEW!
reproduction parts and bodies made of the same plastic as original cars?
Do I paint them the same?
Reproduction parts are made from a 2-part resin, similar in some ways to
a 2-part epoxy glue you may have used in the past. The 2 chemicals A &
B are mixed together and in a short time they harden and are removed from
a rubber mold. Resins can be immersed for a short time and ARE NOT affected
by harsh paint chemicals such as laquer thinner, carb cleaner, acetone
and others, BUT!!!!!! original bodies from Aurora, Tyco and others WILL
BE attacked !!IMMEDIATELY!!! if you attempt to use them on your cars. Painting
original cars with laquer based paints can affect the outside appearance
of your cars and will slightly distort the finish of the body if the paint
must later be removed.
should I use for masking?
you use good 'ole masking tape, you're in trouble. I dont recommend it
at all except for major outside masking. I like to use the clear "Scotch
tapes" that are commonly found. You can see thru the tape for alignment
and cutting as well as the clear tape's adhesive characteristics are very
smooth and sure. You typically won't have the "wicking" problems associated
with masking tape. If you do have a bit of wicking or overspray, try a
small amount of lighter fluid on a cotton swab and clean up the edges while
the paint is still "fresh". NOW, sometimes clear tape will become fragile
and brittle when trying to remove the tape after painting, so to protect
the tape from the paint, I then cover the clear tape with the good 'ole
masking tape. - NEW! PAINT MASK TEMPLATES!!!
These are great so check them out - CLICK
HERE FOR DETAILS
paint masking on repeat jobs?
more repeat paint jobs, make a template. I make mine very easily by using
3M heavy duty packing tape. This has proved very durable and will last
for years if you protect the template.
can I use to remove old paint from my original cars?
it or not, you can actually remove old paint that applied years ago and
still leave the factory paint on the car. The can be done with simple household
chemicals. Spic-N-Span is the key! Simply remove all the orignal chrome
from the car, and soak the car in a bath of Spic-N-Span (SnS) for a few
days. THIS WILL NOT HURT THE CAR IN ANY WAY! You will be able to leave
the car in this bath for weeks and it won't affect the car. Simply check
the car about every 12 hours, morning and evening work well, and remove
the soft paint with a toothbrush. You can start also to use a toothpick
in the door lines and other small body lines to remove the paint. Repeat
the soaking and cleaning steps and usually in about 2 days all or most
all of the paint will be removed leaving the factory paint underneath.
should I use and not use on my cars for cleaning?
chemicals I like to have around are:
- this will remove old paint and leave the factory paint
- This will remove ALL old paint. Strips all paint.
Off Oven cleaner - removes old "chrome" from
bumpers and will remove paint too but you must not leave in the cleaner
for too long as it will attack the plastics. I use it only for cleaning
the chrome from bumpers.
fluid - This is the lighter fluid that your
dad used in his lighters not the butane of today. This can still be easily
found in stores today. I prefer Red Devil brand. This is a good all around
cleaner of finger prints, some fresh paint, oils, and many other things,
but it won't affect the plastic body or glass parts. Great for cleaning
LAQUER BRUSH CLEANER - this is actually a
"fast laquer thinner" and can attack body part's finish if used for too
long. I use this to remove factory paint in selected areas. I apply it
with a cotton swab on the paint I want removed and lightly scrub the paint
with the thinner. This can only be done for about 15 seconds!! Any more
than that you will risk affecting the finish of the car. If more time is
needed to remove the paint, apply it in 15 second intervals letting the
car sit for a couple of minutes before applying more thinner.
DO NOT USE:
fluid for stripping - it will attack clear parts and fog them.
thinner for stripping - it will quickly attack and dissolve your original
Hobby Paints - there are just too many good paints out there to use.
OFF oven cleaner - for stripping paint, it can attack the plastic if left
too long. However, it is good for stripping chome off of parts, but
don't leave them in for more than a few hours.
I use the silver marking pens to paint with?
I recommend you go to your local ART shop, not hobby shop, as they will
have far more of a selection. Ask them if you can test the silver paint
pens, and apply each one in a line to some glass or other shiney item.
Let them all dry and then rub your finger across the silver test lines.
The one silver pen that doesn't smear is the one you buy. I have found
a brand called Marvy-UCHIDA works pretty well. See also below for
"paints I use" for some silver detail tips.
I decal any car, I clean the car very well, because afterwards I will be
applying a clear coat to seal the decals, so CLEAN THE CAR! I prefer water-slide
decals over peel-n-stick. After my decals have been applied, I like to
use SOLVASET, a decal set made by the "train people" Walthers. This will
make the decals appear very crinkled and rough at first, but as it drys
the decal will conform to every nook and cranny on the body. This SOFTENS
the decal and car will needed to avoid contact with the decal until it
completely dries, usually in about 2 hours. After the car is completely
dry, I apply a clear coat of KRYLON Chrystal CLEAR sealer over all the
car. This protects the decals and gives the car a beautiful shine.
What paints do you use?
only paints I use are: Dupli-color, Tamiya, and Krylon. I like a
brand of paints found at your local auto-parts store, called DUPLI-COLOR.
They make the little "rock-chip" paint bottles and also have small aerosol
cans for spray touch up on your real 1:1 car. Its a laquer type of
paint and very thin and easy to use. I simply carefully spray the
paint right into my airbrush (I use Badger and Paashe-good ones not cheapies)
and then spray right onto my slot car body. Be careful, it can attack
some plastics--not resin bodies. The Dupli-color is great for painting
resin bodies, but I also use the silver Dupli-color for "chrome" trim,
etc. For that I just spray the silver right into the silver paint
cap and use it to dip my brush into. If I have decals, I spray them
with the Krylon Crystal Clear. For small tail lights, drivers hair,
and other small spots I also use Tamiya Acrylic paints found at the hobby
hope this helps with your Aurora PAINTING questions and if you need to
find parts for restoring your cars, see Road Race Replicas for all your
you have HO slotcars For Sale? Email me, I'm always looking!
you like a Catalog List of ALL available PARTS?
Remember, all RRR reproduction resin parts
here in the USA
NW LUTES Rd.
thru Friday 9am-5pm Pacific time!
coast 12 NOON - 8pm)
The above information is believed to be
accurate, true and based on the opinions and experiences of Phil Pignon.
It is for public viewing and not to be used in any publications, printed
or otherwise without the written consent of Phil Pignon or Road Race Replicas
(C) Copyright 2012, Road Race Replicas