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Race Replicas is a complete service house with thousands
of quality HO
slot car bodies and parts in stock!
- Frequently Asked Questions
ACTUAL AURORA CAR RESTORED TO LIKE NEW!
reproduction parts and bodies made of the same plastic as
Do I paint them the same?
parts are made from a 2-part resin, similar in some ways to
a 2-part epoxy glue you may have used in the past. The 2
chemicals A &
B are mixed together and in a short time they harden and are
a rubber mold. Resins can be immersed for a short time and ARE
by harsh paint chemicals such as laquer thinner, carb cleaner,
and others, BUT!!!!!! original bodies from Aurora, Tyco and
BE attacked !!IMMEDIATELY!!! if you attempt to use them on
your cars. Painting
original cars with laquer based paints can affect the outside
of your cars and will slightly distort the finish of the body
if the paint
must later be removed.
should I use for masking?
use good 'ole masking tape, you're in trouble. I dont
at all except for major outside masking. I like to use the
tapes" that are commonly found. You can see thru the tape for
and cutting as well as the clear tape's adhesive
characteristics are very
smooth and sure. You typically won't have the "wicking"
with masking tape. If you do have a bit of wicking or
overspray, try a
small amount of lighter fluid on a cotton swab and clean up
the edges while
the paint is still "fresh". NOW, sometimes clear tape will
and brittle when trying to remove the tape after painting, so
the tape from the paint, I then cover the clear tape with the
masking tape. - NEW!
PAINT MASK TEMPLATES!!!
These are great so check them out - CLICK
HERE FOR DETAILS
paint masking on repeat jobs?
repeat paint jobs, make a template. I make mine very easily by
3M heavy duty packing tape. This has proved very durable and
for years if you protect the template.
can I use to remove old paint from my original cars?
or not, you can actually remove old paint that applied years
still leave the factory paint on the car. The can be done with
chemicals. Spic-N-Span is the key! Simply remove all the
from the car, and soak the car in a bath of Spic-N-Span (SnS)
for a few
days. THIS WILL NOT HURT THE CAR IN ANY WAY! You will be able
the car in this bath for weeks and it won't affect the car.
the car about every 12 hours, morning and evening work well,
the soft paint with a toothbrush. You can start also to
use a toothpick
in the door lines and other small body lines to remove the
the soaking and cleaning steps and usually in about 2 days all
all of the paint will be removed leaving the factory paint
should I use and not use on my cars for cleaning?
I like to have around are:
- this will remove old paint and leave the factory paint
- This will remove ALL old paint. Strips all paint.
Oven cleaner - removes old
bumpers and will remove paint too but you must not leave in
for too long as it will attack the plastics. I use it only for
the chrome from bumpers.
fluid - This is the lighter fluid
dad used in his lighters not the butane of today. This can
still be easily
found in stores today. I prefer Red Devil brand. This is a
good all around
cleaner of finger prints, some fresh paint, oils, and many
but it won't affect the plastic body or glass parts. Great for
BRUSH CLEANER - this is actually
"fast laquer thinner" and can attack body part's finish if
used for too
long. I use this to remove factory paint in selected areas. I
with a cotton swab on the paint I want removed and lightly
scrub the paint
with the thinner. This can only be done for about 15 seconds!!
than that you will risk affecting the finish of the car. If
more time is
needed to remove the paint, apply it in 15 second intervals
car sit for a couple of minutes before applying more thinner.
DO NOT USE:
for stripping - it will attack clear parts and fog them.
for stripping - it will quickly attack and dissolve your
Paints - there are just too many good paints out there to use.
oven cleaner - for stripping paint, it can attack the plastic
too long. However, it is good for stripping chome off of
don't leave them in for more than a few hours.
I use the silver marking pens to paint with?
recommend you go to your local ART shop, not hobby shop, as
have far more of a selection. Ask them if you can test the
pens, and apply each one in a line to some glass or other
Let them all dry and then rub your finger across the silver
The one silver pen that doesn't smear is the one you buy. I
a brand called Marvy-UCHIDA works pretty well. See also
"paints I use" for some silver detail tips.
decal any car, I clean the car very well, because afterwards I
applying a clear coat to seal the decals, so CLEAN THE CAR! I
decals over peel-n-stick. After my decals have been applied, I
use SOLVASET, a decal set made by the "train people" Walthers.
make the decals appear very crinkled and rough at first, but
as it drys
the decal will conform to every nook and cranny on the body.
the decal and car will needed to avoid contact with the decal
completely dries, usually in about 2 hours. After the car is
dry, I apply a clear coat of KRYLON Chrystal CLEAR sealer over
car. This protects the decals and gives the car a beautiful
What paints do you use?
paints I use are: Dupli-color, Tamiya, and Krylon. I
brand of paints found at your local auto-parts store, called
They make the little "rock-chip" paint bottles and also have
cans for spray touch up on your real 1:1 car. Its a
laquer type of
paint and very thin and easy to use. I simply carefully
paint right into my airbrush (I use Badger and Paashe-good
ones not cheapies)
and then spray right onto my slot car body. Be careful,
it can attack
some plastics--not resin bodies. The Dupli-color is
great for painting
resin bodies, but I also use the silver Dupli-color for
etc. For that I just spray the silver right into the
cap and use it to dip my brush into. If I have decals, I
with the Krylon Crystal Clear. For small tail lights,
and other small spots I also use Tamiya Acrylic paints found
at the hobby
hope this helps with your Aurora PAINTING questions and if
you need to
find parts for restoring your cars, see Road Race Replicas
for all your
you have HO slotcars For Sale? Email me, I'm always
you like a Catalog List of ALL available PARTS?
Remember, all RRR reproduction
here in the USA
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The above information is believed
accurate, true and based on the opinions and experiences of
It is for public viewing and not to be used in any
or otherwise without the written consent of Phil Pignon or
Road Race Replicas
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