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T-jet Hop-up tips
FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
What can I do to make my T-jets
1. I recommend first you deburr all
the gears. This will get you increased speed with very little effort. Simply
take some extra fine sand paper and place on top and under your gears while
the car is running. Blow away excess brass "dust". You can actually bevel
the ends of the gear teeth to minimize the amount of gear teeth contact
2. Secondly, increase brush tension.
I do this by taking an x-acto knife or other pointed tool and push on the
brush tensioner in the "V" back toward the rivet. This will start to bow
the copper strip and automatically increase the tension.
3. Super II blue and yellow magnets
(RRR#531)will also pick up the speed of your car.
4. Another tip I like is to use the
AFX silver bevel brushes (RRR#503). The extra height increases brush tension
and performance. I have also had very good luck using the JB's Thunderbrushes
(RRR#399), they too work VERY WELL. The only downside with them is
they are a little bit larger diameter than regular Tjet brushes, so a good
clean or new chassis is recommended before installing the JB's.
5. Solder a small wire from each of
the pickup shoes to their rivet plate. This ensures all power goes to the
6. Balance the magnets. HUH? Yes, balance
them by having equal pull by both magnets. I do this by taking a good sized
nail and then place thin washers on the nail. See how many washers each
magnet lifts. Write the number on the magnet and find the 2 equal numbered
magnets that also have the highest numbers.
7. Polish the magnets. Deburr and polish
the magnet's inside curved surface. This gives the most and equal magnet
power to the armature.
8. Independent front wheels with trued
round front tires.
9. Ride on the back of the pickup shoes.
Bend and adjust the pickup shoe so the rail marks are to the back of the
shoe. This minimizes front end bounce caused by the rails.
10. Find a high performance AFX armature
such as the #779 Mean Green and install it.
11. Make the car roll. I like to adjust
my cars so they roll a good long distance after I remove the power. This
makes the car handle so much better thru the curves. This can be achieved
by obviously minimizing axle/wheel friction but also by adjusting the brush
tension. The brush tension is very critical as too much can make the car
"brake" or lock up after power is removed causing the car to swerve in
the back end. By adjusting the tension properly with some less tension,
you can allow the car to "roll" thru the curves.
12. Use a 60 ohm controller. Many people
use 45 and even 25 ohm controllers to race with. I like the varying speeds
the 60 ohm controller gives me especially thru the curves. Think of it
as a 10-speed bike versus a 3-speed bike. This will give much better handling
characteristics to your T-jets. If you can't find a 60 ohm controller,
call RRR and we'll set you up with a real nice Parma unit (RRR #217).
If you want one of the best controllers for T-jets, I really like the new
Professor Motor Controller. These are all PCB control and offer very
smooth control on everything from T-jets, Tyco, Lifelike, and Tomys.
They are great to use for racing. RRR also carries them, and are
around $50 ea. and you'd have to call to place an order for one.
13. Of course, silicone tires will
get you there fast. Believe it or not, a little light film of oil on the
tires will really improve the traction of your cars.
14. Remove excess weight. Of course
there are 10 million ways to do this, so I'll leave it up to you as to
where you want to get rid of the weight. Some ways are: drill holes in
gears; cut away chassis; use a lexan body; many many more.
What can be done to make my gears
stay on the armatures and rear drive shaft?
I've read some of the ways to keep
gears from slipping but I can tell you from my experiences ....
The "make hole in gear smaller
by punching the center...", doesn't work. It only flairs the top
and bottom of the gear.
The "glueing with super-glue"....Doesn't
work. The oils and heat will break that down.
The "soldering gear on".....Doesn't
work. Too much work, and risk melting the gear plate getting the
shafts hot enough to melt the solder. Brass and hardened steel don't
solder well either.
I've heard a lot of them, and tried
them all, they are all temporary. But, I have a bullet proof way
of putting on gears, even with the sloppiest fit, and the NEVER slip....even
Drag slot racing and road slot
car racing creates a lot of torque and stress on the gears with the arm
shaft and pinion shaft. We are dealing with a simple tight friction
fit. Do real 1:1 drag racers have simple V-belts on their blowers to drive
them? No, they have teeth on their belts and pulleys. You can
do the same thing with your Tjet, AFX and even tyco gears. We all
know what the T-jet axles have to hold on the gears and wheels and those
are called splines or knurling. Those lined ribs in the axles are splines
and are actually larger diameter than the bare unknurled section that rides
in the chassies axle holes. Its larger diameter because the material
is displaced from the knurling operation. Well that's exactly what I do
to my racing arms and pinions.
First you must have a pair of cheap,
I emphasize cheap, chinese made (no offense intended) pliers. You
need to find the pliers that have sharp pointed gripping teeth. Don't
use craftsman US made forged pliers as they are typically too rounded.
TRY to find the ones with with POINTED teeth and look for the
teeth to OPPOSE each other, instead
of offset nesting with each other. With these you will now be able
to spline your arms and pinion gears. I take the shaft and with the
pliers "bite" the shaft creating splines and displacing the material. I
bite ONLY the thickness of the gear! If you bite too much the splines
will be down in the hole of the gear plate, and you don't want that as
it will cause resistance and make the car slow. So, only bite the thickness
of the gear, do this once, you've now made two opposing splines. Rotate
the shaft 1/4 turn and put two more splines in it, so you now have 4 splines.
You want to put 4 splines in (2 bites with pliers) so the material is equally
displaced when you put the gear back on self-centering itself.
Since the gears are made of brass,
it is softer than the hard steel, so when you press back on the gears onto
the shaft, the splines will actually cut into the brass and push out small
chips of brass. I've done this on the arm gears and top drive/pinion gear
and never had one slip ever. You can even remove the gears several
times and keep putting the same one back on without any slippage.
The pinion gear because it is positioned
in the center of the axle is a little more difficult to spline, but if
you locate the area you want splined you can angle the cuts in the axle
making it a limited area you spline.
Remember, you are displacing the
material in the shaft so don't put too large of splines that will only
slow the car down.
These are some quick easy ways
to get your T-jets to go faster and hopefully they will help you to take
the lead in your races. Please don't add traction magnets to your T-jets!
This only destroys the skill and beauty of racing T-jets. Have Fun!
I hope this helps with your Aurora
hop-up questions and if you need to find parts for restoring your cars,
see Road Race Replicas for all your needs.
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The above information is believed to be accurate, true and based on
the opinions and experiences of Phil Pignon. It is for public viewing and
not to be used in any publications, printed or otherwise without the written
consent of Phil Pignon or Road Race Replicas
(C) Copyright 2003, Road Race Replicas